Jaisalmer: “Oh… It go ice.”

Purl Interrrupted

Jaisalmer sits smack bang in the middle of the Rajastan desert where the camels roam and the vultures circle. Its fort is probably the most impressive I’ve seen yet (and lately it has been a fortarama). People still live in its innards, you can stay inside (thought Lonely Planet frowns on  you for doing so. Bad tourist! Bad!), and pootle about its shops and temples without ever leaving the fort walls. It is also impressive as it is made entirely from honeycomb.

Jaisalmer - Temple lurking me

Well alright, that’s a lie. Its fashioned from yellow sandstone, but it looks like its made from the inside of a Crunchie, and wandering about its guts it is hard not to just take a small nibble of the wall to see if it is honeycomb or not. It isn’t. Trust me.    gingerly touches teeth

Jaisalmer - Main gate morning

Jaisalmer - Lake boy

On our first night I realised that maybe there was something more in the Jaisalmer water than just the usual Delhi belly worms. The waiter who was serving us bought my drink to the table. It was a simple Fresh Lime Soda, I live on them out here, just fresh lime squeezed into a glass with fizzy water. Its as refreshing as being slapped in the face by a dolphin.

So the man puts down my glass bottle of soda, picks up the bottle opener and asks if I want him to open it. I do. He does. “Oh…” he says, ever so sadly, “It go ice.” Before my eyes the bottle of soda, which was happily bubbling away before he laid a hand on it, turn to ice slowly from the top down. “I get you another.” he says in the same sorrowful tones. He takes it away. M and I sit and blink at the space where the bottle was. The waiter returns and won’t answer a single question on the incident.

Jaisalmer - Fresh Lime Soda and sock

Fresh Lime Soda and almost sock

It is clear to me that the waiter has the power to freeze water at will, and that sometimes, maybe when he has spilled birayani down a customer who would have been a big tipper, or a cow gouged at him on the way to work because he looked at it funny, he loses control of his power and ends up showing it to us mere mortals in the form of sudden soft drink freezing. You heard it here first. The next generation is here…

In other, less superpowered news, I would like to introduce you to your local Jaisalmer Yarn Store.

Jaisalmer - Local Yarn Store

Jaisalmer - Yarn seller hard at work

I know not everyone is knitting minded but I ask you how I could resist buying yarn from a shop that displayed it as finely as this? Easily browsable from camel back, within chewing distance of passing cows, and 50 rupees for 50 grams of pure wool.

I think the shopkeeper was less impressed than I was.

Hard sell

Hard sell

So yes. I have yarn. I am going to fashion a hat with it for the chills of Nepal. Hurrah!

Also, and lastly Jaisalmer saw most of my first ever sock taking shape. It’s getting damned chilly here at night too so my toes are going to need them. Let’s hope it takes me less time to make sock two…

Jaisalmer - Almost sock

Almost-there sock


  1. Emmy
    November 26, 2008

    Oh that is a lovely lot of yarn… *drools*

  2. Laura Davis
    November 27, 2008

    YAY! Keep going with the sock and get out of India! If anyone asks, you are Mauritian and Michael is Polish.

    Love you!!!!!!!!