Attari: “Hindustan!” “Pakistan!”

Sat in the VIP area of the most patriotic crowd I have ever been a part of, watching men with fans on their heads attempt to a

Amritsar – Diwali at the Golden Temple: “Are you happy?”

I was accosted by a whole crowd of Sikhs outside the temple who stood around giggling as a small boy, with arms much stronger

Amritsar – Jallianwala Bagh “An everlasting symbol of non-violent and peaceful struggle for the freedom of India”

In 1919 General Dyer, of the British Army, was called to restore order to the city as unrest had broken out over an emergency

Amritsar: “You my brother. You my sister.”

Gap-toothed rickshaw driver to the rescue! He lead us out into the street next to his chugging steed “No worry.” He told u

Chandigarh: “You remind me of the babe.”

The maze is 20 hectares of pure imagination, twisty passages, armies of wobbly-legged stickmen, spindly ponies, growling stone

Rishikesh: Revenge of the Still-Mooing Steak

Before now I have had no reason to fear the cow. I have cheerfully chewed my way through still-mooing steak for as long as I c

Rishikesh: Himalaya-side Knitting

It’s sort of chilly up here with the Himalayas peering down your neck, so it makes sense there should be knitted goodies all

Aurangabad to Dehli: “What are you weaving?”

“Don’t worry. The cockroaches won’t hurt you.” by a smiling be-turbaned Sikh youth as I got warily into bed.

Aurangabad – Ajanta and Ellora Caves: “Please, picture?”

It is quite frankly all kinds of magnificent to stand in the dark with the cool cave floor beneath the soles of your feet, pee

Mumbai: “Excuse me, you want to be in a Bollywood film?”

Mumbai. Once Bombay (they just call Bombay Mix 'Mix' here), and now Mumbai, but still Bombay to half the people here leaving u